Four Empire Rye Whiskeys Worth Serching Out
Rye whiskey has been gradually growing in popularity but the majority of what is being drunk is still coming from Kentucky, Indiana, or Canada. However, since the 1700s rye as a grain and a whiskey flourished in New York it was one of the primary styles of whiskey made in the Empire State. Today a new breed of New York distillers has committed reviving the legacy of New York rye whiskey and in 2015, a handful of them banded together to form the Empire Rye Whiskey Association to collectively promote this historic and style. They define Empire Rye as whiskey made from a mash of at least 75% New York State-grown rye grain, distilled to no more than 160 proof (this is the same for other ryes), aged for a minimum of two years in charred, new oak barrels, with a maximum barrel entry proof of 115 (57.5%) and made completely at a single New York State distillery. Today there are more than a dozen distilleries making their version of Empire Rye and below you will find four that I think are worth searching out.
And, if you are interested in more detail on the history of distilling in New York you can find a whole chapter dedicated to Empire Rye in my book, The Atlas of Bourbon and American Whiskey.
Sample bottle provided by New York Distilling Co.
New York Distilling Company
Jaywalk Straight Rye Whiskey 46% ABV, MSRP $50
Allen Katz and Tom Potter founded New York Distilling Company in 2011 with vision to revive the long history of distilling in Brooklyn that stretches back to the 1700. Like many other New York distillers, Katz and Potter have been dedicated to sourcing locally grown grains for their whiskeys and even worked with Cornell University’s College of Agriculture to breathe new life into an almost extinct variety of heirloom rye.
Jaywalk is made from a fermented mash of 75% New York rye, 13% New York corn and 12% malted barley. The rye is a combination of their Pedersen Field Race rye, a unique hybrid they developed with Farmer Rick Pedersen up in Seneca Falls and the Horton rye they revitalize with Cornell. The mash is distilled in their hybrid-pot sill and aged in new charred oak barrels for six to eight years before the whiskey makes its way into the bottle.
This is a very exciting whiskey. There are intense aromas and flavors of black pepper, oak and rye spice but these are supported by sweeter flavors of vanilla, light brown sugar, dried apricot, and ripe nectarines. Don’t be afraid to enjoy this neat, but if you find it a bit too intene then it will do well on the rocks or in your favorite cocktail. $50 for this 6+ year old Empire Rye is a solid buy.
Sample bottled provided by Kings County Distillery
Kings County Distillery
Empire Rye Straight Rye Whiskey 51% ABV, MSRP $99
Kings County Distillery was the first whiskey distillery in Brooklyn, New York to open since Prohibition. Like many other craft distilleries, they sourced locally grown grains and began by selling unaged corn whiskey and aged their bourbon in small barrels. However, over time they have gradually scaled up their barrels and their 375ml hip flasks have largely been replace by new 750ml bottles. In 2016, the American Distilling Institute named Kings County Distillery as their Distillery of the Year.
Their Empire Rye Is fermented from a mash of 80% New York-grown Danko rye and 20% English malted barley and double pot distilled in their Forsyth’s stills from Scotland. After distillation they are aged for a minimum of two years in Brooklyn though their recent releases have aged for at least 3 years.
The whiskey has lovely aromas caramel orchard fruit and baking spices. For a relatively young whiskey it has good structure and balance between flavors of oak, rye spice, fruit and caramels. Enjoy it neat, or with a splash of water, and it makes a fantastic New York Sour!
Sample bottled provided by Great Jones Distilling Co.
Great Jones Distilling Co.
Straight Rye Whiskey 45% ABV, MSRP $45
Great Jones has the distinction of being the first operating distillery on the island of Manhattan since Prohibition. They source their grain from their sister distillery in the Black Dirt region of New York near the boarder with Pennsylvania and New Jersey. Their whiskeys are made by their Head Distiller Celina Perez, who previously worked for a couple of other spirit companys as well as a bartender and a cheesemonger.
Their straight rye whiskey is made from a fermented mash of 100% New York-grown rye which is distilled in their copper column with pot still doubler. And because of fire concerns their barrels are filled and them moved off site from their NOHO distillery to age for a minimum of 4 years before it is then bottled at 90 proof.
On the nose there is an inviting aroma of warm rye bread and strawberry jam followed by notes of orange zest and vanilla. As it breaths aromas of cracked black pepper and light caramel that evolves into over ripe apricot and toasted oak. These flavors ontinue on the palate and slowly fade on the finish. This is a solid buy at $45 and is fun new edition to the world of New York rye whiskeys. It is well balanced, easy to sip neat, and will work on the rocks or in your preferred rye-based cocktail.
Sample bottled provided by Finger Lakes Distilling
Finger Lakes Distilling
McKenzie Straight Rye Whiskey 45.5% ABV, MSRP $40
Since 2008 Finger Lakes Distilling has been making a wide array of spirits in New York's famed wine region. The Finger Lakes are in western New York and the cold winters are moderated by lakes that stripe the landscape. When the distillery opened their doors, there were no malt houses in the state so they built their own to malt NY grown barley.
Their rye whiskey is distilled from a fermented mash of 80% NY grown Danko rye, and 20% malted barley which is then aged in charred new oak barrels made from Missouri white oak that was yard seasoned for 36 months. The whiskey enters the barrel at 100 proof and after aging for a minimum of four years before it is then finish in casks that previously held locally made sherry style wines.
The whiskey has lots of fun flavors of fruit and herbs. There is a light sweetness and subtle notes of oak followed by stronger flavors of caramel, clove and bright green apple. McKenzie Straight Rye makes a nice pre-dinner aperitif or post-desert digestive. At 91 proof the whiskey is soft enough to enjoy neat or with a splash of water.
Honorable Mention
Since the founding of the Empire Rye Whiskey Association, it has expanded to 19 distilleries around New York. Here are a couple others that are also making Empire Rye.
Since 2015, Southern Tier Distilling Company has been making a variety of spirits including vodka, gin, whiskey, liqueurs and canned cocktails. Their stills were even built by one of their founders who previously worked as a welder and fabricator. Their rye whiskey is made from NY grown rye and corn, which after distillation is aged in new oak barrels with a heavy #4 char. The current bottlings of their Empire Rye are aged for a minimum of 6 years and bottled at 90 proof.
Black Button Distilling was founded by Jason Barrett who comes from a long line of world class tailors who have made closes for "Presidents, Popes, Kings, and Businessmen", hence the name. Built in Rochester, New York, Black Button is a grain-to-glass distillery with 100% of its ingredients grown in the Empire State. Today Black Button makes several spirits including vodka, gin, liqueurs, and whiskey. Their Empire Straight Rye Whiskey is made from a distilled mash of 94% Danko rye and 6% malted barley which is then aged for a minimum of 3 years before it is bottled unfiltered at 96 proof.