Review: Modern Ancient Grains Project Bolita Belatove Oaxacan Pink Corn Whiskey

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Free sample bottled provided by Workhorse Rye. Photo by Rob Easter

AT A GLANCe

• Owned by: Workhorse Rye

• Distilled at: Sutherland Distilling Co. in Livermore, CA

• Still Type: Hybrid Still

• Spirit Type: Corn Whiskey

• Age Statement: NAS

• Strength: 50%ABV

• Price: ~$44 (375ml) from Modern Ancient Grains Project

The Modern Ancient Grains Project is a product of the experience and ethic of Rob Easter, distiller and owner of Workhorse Rye. For this bottling Easter used 100% Bolita Belatove pink corn to make this whiskey. Bolita Belatove is grown in the central valleys of Oaxaca, Mexico, and just six years ago it was in danger of going extinct. However, interest from high end restaurants and epicureans have helped to sustain this beautiful variety of corn. In Zapotec belatove is the name for the maguey worm (technically a caterpillar) that lives off agave plants. It is not know why the corn and worm share this name but it might have something to do with their similar hue.

One of the standard refrains of conventional bourbon is that heirloom corn does not have enough starch and is therefore not as efficient as the standard #2 yellow dent corn. However, Easter’s corn mash was 22 brix! It is not uncommon for wine grapes to be harvested between 21 and 25 brix so the belatove definitely has enough potential. Once fermented, Easter double distilled the corn mash and aged the spirit in a mix of second fill 53 gallon barrels and third fill 25 gallon barrels.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: First thing you immediately notice is that this is a young corn whiskey. It has that typical note or yeast and cream corn. But as you sit with the whiskey it begins to reveal more complex aromas of stone fruit and cranberries, with just a hint of vanilla. There is also a nice light minerality to the nose that is very inviting.

Palate: On the palate the whiskey is light and a little hot but do not be dissuaded, it is packed full of flavor. On the tip of your tongue you first notice the earthy character that comes from the corn and yeast, but as the whiskey moves across your tongue it completely transforms. Mid-palate there is bright explosion of fruit flavors like a fresh compote made from blackcurrant and tart blueberries. And, as the spirit makes its way to the back of your palate you notice the oak with just a hint of vanilla and caramel.

Finish: The finish is long and warm with notes of milk chocolate and peanut butter. The finish has no bitterness and yet it has this great dance between sweet, salty, and savory that calls you back for another sip.

Conclusion: This corn whiskey from Rob Easter is like nothing else I've had before. He has shown a new approach to whiskey that is focused on the flavor potential unique grains and should be sought after by those looking for delicious whiskeys unencumbered by tradition. In my experience, corn whiskeys can be challenging. Unaged, they can be dominated by a somewhat musty and funky character from the fermented corn, and in a barrel, it is easy for the spirit to be overwhelmed by the oak and just taste like wood. But Easter has found the perfect balance of the two. The character of the heirloom corn mingled with the used oak has created something truly unique and special. The elegance and restraint of this spirit reminds me of how wine writer Jon Bonné described "New California Wine" that was focused on allowing the character of the fruit and the terrior to shine through. This spirit is not your average corn whiskey but a witness to the incredible flavor potential of heirloom corn and the great attention the distiller brought to this spirit. If you are a traditional bourbon drinker or a fan of Mellow Corn, this may be outside your comfort zone. However, if you are fond of restrained wines or light bodied malt whiskeys you may be open to enjoy this different and delicious spirit.

Review: Workhorse Rye Redhorse Whiskey

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Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party.

AT A GLANCE

• Owned by: Workhorse Rye

• Distilled at: Sutherland Distilling Co. in Livermore, CA

• Still Type: Hybrid Still

• Spirit Type: Whiskey distilled from Rye

• Strength: 60% ABV

• Price: ~$35 (200ml)

In 2011, Rob Easter founded Workhouse Rye to be a “progressive and sustainable” producer of whiskey and bitters. For the past eight years Easter has operated as an itinerant distiller, renting still time and space from distilleries to ferment, distill, and mature his whiskeys. From 2012-2014, Easter was able to refined his distilling chops at Kings County Distillery in Brooklyn, New York helping to develop their award winning Peated Bourbon. Since 2014, Easter has focused on sourcing most of his grains direct from farmer who are growing non-irrigated heirloom varieties of rye, wheat, corn and barley. Hybridized and GMO grains have been designed to maximize starch production and respond positively to modern farming techniques, (irrigation, fertilizers and pesticides), the consequence however is that these plants has lost a multitude of other compounds that added flavor and depth of character when made into bread or distilled into whiskey. For Easter, he has to use more than 1000 pounds of grain to make one barrel of whiskey, but he believes that despite the lower yield, these grains result in a better spirit that is also less taxing on the environment.

Each expression of Workhorse begins with the same mash bill of 70% west coast rye, 20% malted barley, and 10% malted wheat. The mash is fermented, pot distilled, and then filled in a variety of barrels. US labeling laws for rye whiskey require the spirit to be aged in charred new oak barrels, but because Redhorse matures in used wine barrels, it is just labeled whiskey. For this particular bottling, Easter aged the whiskey for two years in used Broc Cellers Syrah casks before being bottled at 60% ABV.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: On the nose there are fantastic aromas of a nutty Manzanilla sherry intermixed with notes of dried dates, raisins and prunes compote cooked with cinnamon sticks. As the whiskey breaths aromas of dark cherries and chocolate strawberries start to break through.

Palate: On the palate the whiskey is intense with big flavors of cinnamon spice, dried fruit and hazelnuts. With a little water the flavor broadens and opens with more oak notes from the barrel and a touch of milk chocolate.

Finish: The finish lingers with notes of roasted nuts, baked apples and a touch of orange blossom honey.

Conclusion: Redhorse Whiskey is an intense and decadent whiskey that should be sipped over a large ice cube or used to make a fantastic Manhattan. Drinkers who like nutty sherries should search this out and sip judiciously.

Review: Workhorse Rye Palehorse Whiskey

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Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party.

AT A GLANCE

• Owned by: Workhorse Rye

• Distilled at: Sutherland Distilling Co. in Livermore, CA

• Still Type: Hybrid Still

• Spirit Type: Whiskey distilled from Rye

• Strength: 55% ABV

• Price: ~$35 (200ml)

In 2011, Rob Easter founded Workhouse Rye to be a “progressive and sustainable” producer of whiskey and bitters. For the past eight years Easter has operated as an itinerant distiller, renting still time and space from distilleries to ferment, distill, and mature his whiskeys. From 2012-2014, Easter was able to refined his distilling chops at Kings County Distillery in Brooklyn, New York helping to develop their award winning Peated Bourbon. Since 2014, Easter has focused on sourcing most of his grains direct from farmer who are growing non-irrigated heirloom varieties of rye, wheat, corn and barley. Hybridized and GMO grains have been designed to maximize starch production and respond positively to modern farming techniques, (irrigation, fertilizers and pesticides), the consequence however is that these plants has lost a multitude of other compounds that added flavor and depth of character when made into bread or distilled into whiskey. For Easter, he has to use more than 1000 pounds of grain to make one barrel of whiskey, but he believes that despite the lower yield, these grains result in a better spirit that is also less taxing on the environment.

Each expression of Workhorse begins with the same mash bill of 70% west coast rye, 20% malted barley, and 10% malted wheat. The mash is fermented, pot distilled, and then filled in a variety of barrels. US labeling laws for rye whiskey require the spirit to be aged in charred new oak barrels, but because Palehorse matures for a year in used whiskey barrels, it is just labeled whiskey. The used barrels and shorter maturation period also explains why Palehorse has a nice light straw color.

In 2019, Palehorse Whiskey earned a bronze medal from the American Distilling Institute’s Judging of Craft Spirits.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: The aroma is round and inviting like freshly baked bread with a touch of yeastiness and salty air.

Palate: A little heat from the higher ABV but there is an immediate sweetness like biting into a ripe plum that still has a little bit of tannins in the skins.

Finish: The finish lingers with note of malted chocolate, plum skins, stone fruit and a touch buckwheat which slowly evolves and fades into soft notes of oak.

Conclusion: Palehorse Whiskey is very good however, those looking for a powerful rye whiskey like those coming out of Kentucky or Indiana will be disappointed. Palehorse is a delicious dram that should be tried by those who like soft grain forward whiskies like those from the lowlands of Scotland or Japan. Other than drinking neat or with a little water, I would pick delicate cocktails like a short whiskey soda or whiskey sour with fresh lemon juice. Overall, this a very beautiful whiskey.