Review: Modern Ancient Grains Project Bolita Belatove Oaxacan Pink Corn Whiskey
Free sample bottled provided by Workhorse Rye. Photo by Rob Easter
AT A GLANCe
Owned by: Workhorse Rye
Distilled at: Sutherland Distilling Co. in Livermore, CA
Still Type: Hybrid Still
Spirit Type: Corn Whiskey
Age Statement: NAS
Strength: 50%ABV
Price: ~$44 (375ml) from Modern Ancient Grains Project
The Modern Ancient Grains Project is a product of the experience and ethic of Rob Easter, distiller and owner of Workhorse Rye. For this bottling Easter used 100% Bolita Belatove pink corn to make this whiskey. Bolita Belatove is grown in the central valleys of Oaxaca, Mexico, and just six years ago it was in danger of going extinct. However, interest from high end restaurants and epicureans have helped to sustain this beautiful variety of corn. In Zapotec belatove is the name for the maguey worm (technically a caterpillar) that lives off agave plants. It is not know why the corn and worm share this name but it might have something to do with their similar hue.
One of the standard refrains of conventional bourbon is that heirloom corn does not have enough starch and is therefore not as efficient as the standard #2 yellow dent corn. However, Easter’s corn mash was 22 brix! It is not uncommon for wine grapes to be harvested between 21 and 25 brix so the belatove definitely has enough potential. Once fermented, Easter double distilled the corn mash and aged the spirit in a mix of second fill 53 gallon barrels and third fill 25 gallon barrels.
TASTING NOTES
Nose: First thing you immediately notice is that this is a young corn whiskey. It has that typical note or yeast and cream corn. But as you sit with the whiskey it begins to reveal more complex aromas of stone fruit and cranberries, with just a hint of vanilla. There is also a nice light minerality to the nose that is very inviting.
Palate: On the palate the whiskey is light and a little hot but do not be dissuaded, it is packed full of flavor. On the tip of your tongue you first notice the earthy character that comes from the corn and yeast, but as the whiskey moves across your tongue it completely transforms. Mid-palate there is bright explosion of fruit flavors like a fresh compote made from blackcurrant and tart blueberries. And, as the spirit makes its way to the back of your palate you notice the oak with just a hint of vanilla and caramel.
Finish: The finish is long and warm with notes of milk chocolate and peanut butter. The finish has no bitterness and yet it has this great dance between sweet, salty, and savory that calls you back for another sip.
Conclusion: This corn whiskey from Rob Easter is like nothing else I've had before. He has shown a new approach to whiskey that is focused on the flavor potential unique grains and should be sought after by those looking for delicious whiskeys unencumbered by tradition. In my experience, corn whiskeys can be challenging. Unaged, they can be dominated by a somewhat musty and funky character from the fermented corn, and in a barrel, it is easy for the spirit to be overwhelmed by the oak and just taste like wood. But Easter has found the perfect balance of the two. The character of the heirloom corn mingled with the used oak has created something truly unique and special. The elegance and restraint of this spirit reminds me of how wine writer Jon Bonné described "New California Wine" that was focused on allowing the character of the fruit and the terrior to shine through. This spirit is not your average corn whiskey but a witness to the incredible flavor potential of heirloom corn and the great attention the distiller brought to this spirit. If you are a traditional bourbon drinker or a fan of Mellow Corn, this may be outside your comfort zone. However, if you are fond of restrained wines or light bodied malt whiskeys you may be open to enjoy this different and delicious spirit.