Review: Spirits Works Bottled-in-Bond Wheat Whiskey

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Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party.

AT A GLANCE

• Distilled & Owned by: Spirit Works Distillery, in Sebastopol, CA.

• Still Type: Hybrid Still

• Spirit Type: Wheat Whiskey

• Strength: 50% ABV

• Price: $60

Founded by Timo and Ashby Marshall, Spirit Works Distillery is a grain-to-glass distillery situated in downtown Sebastopol, California that specializes in a variety of whiskeys and gins. For more than five years, Timo and Ashby have been leading a dedicated team producing some of the best spirits in the state.

The first time I tasted Spirit Works Gin at their distillery in 2014, I became very excited for the eventual release of their whiskeys. One might wonder, what does a gin have to do with how good a whiskey might be when it still a year or two away from being bottled? When Timo described the flavor profile of the gin they were trying to create, it exactly matched what was in the glass. It has been my experience that the flavor profile of what a craft distiller says they are trying to get and what is actually made do not always overlap, but Timo and Ashby demonstrated incredible precision in this. That same day I told my wife, if Spirit Works could manifest their intentions in their whiskeys as clearly as they did with their white spirits, then they would have something very special.

The whiskey was distilled in one season from a fermented mash of 100% Organic California Red Winter Wheat. Post distillation, new charred oak barrels are filled with the spirit and left to rest. True to the Bottled in Bond’s legal requirements, the whiskey was then aged for a minimum of 4 years and bottled at 50% ABV.

Making whiskey takes patients and vision. And, in between runs of vodka and gin, Ashby and current head distiller Lauren Patz have slowly built an aging stock of 53 gallon barrels full of whiskey. Two yeas passed before they bottle their first barrel while others continued their slow maturation. And now, five years later, my hopeful excitement has been realized. Not only have they made some of the best California Whiskey but, Spirit Works Bottled-in-Bond Wheat Whiskey is one of the best new American Whiskeys released in 2019.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: On the nose there is warm whole wheat bread and endives. Layered underneath those top aromas are strong notes of raisins, brandy cherries, and fresh cut oak. As the whiskey breaths lighter notes of candied orange peal and vanilla float to the top.

Palate: At first sip the whiskey is soft and slides across your tongue. On the palate the whiskey opens with notes of oak and burnt sugar which are followed by sweet caramel and cloves. Initially the whiskey starts slightly bitter but after the second and third sip the bitterness completely fades away and is just big bold flavors of cinnamon and sugar.

Finish: After swallowing, the tongue tingles from the higher proof but once the palate adjusts the finish is long light and dry with notes of vanilla, fresh peaches, and a mixture of bergamot and baking spices. As it slowly fades you are left with faint oak tannins that invite you back to the glass to take another sip.

Conclusion: Spirit Works Bottled-in-Bond Wheat Whiskey is a big and bold whiskey with lots of youthful character that is a joy to drink. Fans of their whiskey will love this new bottling and at 50% ABV the whiskey blossoms with a little bit of water or served over one large chunk of ice. The whiskey also does very well in a number of classic cocktails like the Old Fashioned and Manhattan. While I'm not usually a big fan of Old Fashioneds the whiskey really sung in the drink. With just a little bit of sugar, bitters, and an orange peal, the whiskey popped and at 100 proof the drink wasn't completely watered down by the time you get to the end. If you are in Northern California, I highly recommend making the trip to Sebastopol and picking up a bottle.

Review: Workhorse Rye Virgin Cask California Rye Whiskey

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Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party.

AT A GLANCE

• Owned by: Workhorse Rye

• Distilled at: Sutherland Distilling Co. in Livermore, CA

• Still Type: Hybrid Still

• Spirit Type: Rye Whiskey

• Strength: 50% ABV

• Price: $80

In 2011, Rob Easter founded Workhouse Rye to be a “progressive and sustainable” producer of whiskey and bitters. For the past eight years Easter has operated as an itinerant distiller, renting still time and space from distilleries to ferment, distill, and mature his whiskeys. From 2012-2014, Easter was able to refined his distilling chops at Kings County Distillery in Brooklyn, New York helping to develop their award winning Peated Bourbon. Since 2014, Easter has focused on sourcing most of his grains direct from farmers who are growing non-irrigated heirloom varieties of rye, wheat, corn and barley. Hybridized and GMO grains have been designed to maximize starch production and respond positively to modern farming techniques, (irrigation, fertilizers and pesticides), the consequence however is that these plants has lost a multitude of other compounds that added flavor and depth of character when made into bread or distilled into whiskey. For Easter, he has to use more than 1000 pounds of grain to make one barrel of whiskey, but he believes that despite the lower yield, these grains result in a better spirit that is also less taxing on the environment.

Each expression of Workhorse begins with the same mash bill of 70% west coast rye, 20% malted barley, and 10% malted wheat. The mash is fermented, pot distilled, and then filled in a variety of barrels. As the name infers, Workhorse Rye’s Virgin Cask is a Rye Whiskey as defined by the US Government because of its mash bill (min 51% Rye) how its distilled (below 80% ABV), and how it is matured (barreled below 62.5% ABV in charred new oak barrels). For this expression of Virgin Cask, it was matured for one year, and bottled at 50% ABV.

In 2019, Workhorse Rye’s Virgin Cask California Rye Whiskey earned a silver medal from the American Distilling Institute’s Judging of Craft Spirits.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: First thing you notice on the nose is a grainy sweetness that is both floral and fruity with notes of green apple, nectarine and dark chocolate cherries, under girded by soft aromas of toasted oak.

Palate: At 50% ABV the palate is pleasantly smooth and full bodied. The flavor is strong with grain and wood notes up front followed with lighter flavors of nectarine and grape skins. The palate also has a soft spice character mixed with the flavor of homemade marshmallows without the intense sweetness.

Finish: On the finish the whiskey blossoms and then gently fades with light notes of white grape juice and raspberries.

Conclusion: Workhorse Virgin Cask is a beautiful example of heirloom rye grown, distilled and matured in California. In the shadow of Mt. Diablo, this whiskey soaked in the soft cool marine air and captures a beautiful snapshot of the terrior of California. It has elements that will please both fans of traditional rye whiskey and those who love the restrained and elegant California wines.

Review: Workhorse Rye Redhorse Whiskey

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Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party.

AT A GLANCE

• Owned by: Workhorse Rye

• Distilled at: Sutherland Distilling Co. in Livermore, CA

• Still Type: Hybrid Still

• Spirit Type: Whiskey distilled from Rye

• Strength: 60% ABV

• Price: ~$35 (200ml)

In 2011, Rob Easter founded Workhouse Rye to be a “progressive and sustainable” producer of whiskey and bitters. For the past eight years Easter has operated as an itinerant distiller, renting still time and space from distilleries to ferment, distill, and mature his whiskeys. From 2012-2014, Easter was able to refined his distilling chops at Kings County Distillery in Brooklyn, New York helping to develop their award winning Peated Bourbon. Since 2014, Easter has focused on sourcing most of his grains direct from farmer who are growing non-irrigated heirloom varieties of rye, wheat, corn and barley. Hybridized and GMO grains have been designed to maximize starch production and respond positively to modern farming techniques, (irrigation, fertilizers and pesticides), the consequence however is that these plants has lost a multitude of other compounds that added flavor and depth of character when made into bread or distilled into whiskey. For Easter, he has to use more than 1000 pounds of grain to make one barrel of whiskey, but he believes that despite the lower yield, these grains result in a better spirit that is also less taxing on the environment.

Each expression of Workhorse begins with the same mash bill of 70% west coast rye, 20% malted barley, and 10% malted wheat. The mash is fermented, pot distilled, and then filled in a variety of barrels. US labeling laws for rye whiskey require the spirit to be aged in charred new oak barrels, but because Redhorse matures in used wine barrels, it is just labeled whiskey. For this particular bottling, Easter aged the whiskey for two years in used Broc Cellers Syrah casks before being bottled at 60% ABV.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: On the nose there are fantastic aromas of a nutty Manzanilla sherry intermixed with notes of dried dates, raisins and prunes compote cooked with cinnamon sticks. As the whiskey breaths aromas of dark cherries and chocolate strawberries start to break through.

Palate: On the palate the whiskey is intense with big flavors of cinnamon spice, dried fruit and hazelnuts. With a little water the flavor broadens and opens with more oak notes from the barrel and a touch of milk chocolate.

Finish: The finish lingers with notes of roasted nuts, baked apples and a touch of orange blossom honey.

Conclusion: Redhorse Whiskey is an intense and decadent whiskey that should be sipped over a large ice cube or used to make a fantastic Manhattan. Drinkers who like nutty sherries should search this out and sip judiciously.

Review: Wintersun Aquavit

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Free sample bottled and photo provided by Bluewater Distilling.

AT A GLANCE

• Distilled & Owned by: Bluewater Distilling in Everett, WA

• Still Type: Pot Still

• Spirit Type: Aquavit

• Strength: 40% ABV

• Price: $37

Founded by John Lundin in 2008, Bluewater Distilling is located in Everett, WA about 30 minutes drive north of Seattle. In October 2018, Lundin released Wntersun Aquavit, the newest addition to the Bluewater line of spirits. Aquavit is a traditional botanical spirit from Scandinavia which is primarily flavored with caraway and or dill.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: Very pleasant nose of caraway, supported with light notes of anis and orange zest.

Palate: On the palate, the aquavit is very soft and smooth as it coats your tongue. The flavor starts with a burst of caraway followed by a round anis note and a hint of bright citrus.

Finish: The finish is long and subttle with sweet star anis and orang peal.

Conclusion: Wintersun is a subtle and well balanced aquavit that would be a good introduction for anyone unfamiliar with the category. Wintersun works well with dry vermouth as a substitute in a vodka martini, and could appeal as a botanical spirit for those not fond of juniper. While my personal preference gravitates towards aquavits with a more intense caraway character with no anis, Wintersun does a great job of creating a balanced spirit that stays true to the the category.

Review: Gin Farallon

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Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party.

At a Glance

• Distilled & Owned by: Coastal Spirits in San Carlos, CA

• Still Type: Pot Still

• Spirit Type: Contemporary Gin

• Strength: 43% ABV

• Price: $35

Gin Farallon is the brainchild of Brad Plummer, the owner and operator of Coastal Spirits. Tucked into a small business park in San Carlos, CA, Plummer has been making gin, vodka and a number of liqueurs for the past few years. Gin Farallon starts with a neutral corn spirits which he redistills to remove some of the harsher elements. Plummer fills the still with his re-distilled neutral spirit and botanicals, some of which he macerates before distillation. After the gin is distilled,  Plummer proofs the spirit with water he has infused with cucumber. In 2017, Plummer's passion and work was rewarded when Gin Farallon earned a gold medal from the Judging of Craft Spirits.

Tasting Notes

Nose: The nose opens with aromas of cardamom, and dried orange peal. As it breathes, notes of angelica, orris root and bright pine begin to come forward. 

Palate: On the palate the gin has a very full body that shows lots of spice character from the cardamom and orris root and a slight green character perhaps from coriander.

Finish: The finish had a nice warmth that isn't harsh. Immediately after drinking, warm citrus notes dance on the tongue followed by earthy cucumber and floral notes supported be a lightly resinous flavor from the juniper. 

Conclusion: Gin Farallon is a very lovely contemporary gin that shows complexity in the botanicals though no one is overwhelming. True to the commentary style, the juniper plays a supporting role and is key to its overall balance. If you enjoy gin without an intense juniper character, check out Gin Farallon and use it to make a great Negroni, a floral gin and tonic, or even an aviation.