Review: Spirits Works Bottled-in-Bond Wheat Whiskey

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Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party.

AT A GLANCE

• Distilled & Owned by: Spirit Works Distillery, in Sebastopol, CA.

• Still Type: Hybrid Still

• Spirit Type: Wheat Whiskey

• Strength: 50% ABV

• Price: $60

Founded by Timo and Ashby Marshall, Spirit Works Distillery is a grain-to-glass distillery situated in downtown Sebastopol, California that specializes in a variety of whiskeys and gins. For more than five years, Timo and Ashby have been leading a dedicated team producing some of the best spirits in the state.

The first time I tasted Spirit Works Gin at their distillery in 2014, I became very excited for the eventual release of their whiskeys. One might wonder, what does a gin have to do with how good a whiskey might be when it still a year or two away from being bottled? When Timo described the flavor profile of the gin they were trying to create, it exactly matched what was in the glass. It has been my experience that the flavor profile of what a craft distiller says they are trying to get and what is actually made do not always overlap, but Timo and Ashby demonstrated incredible precision in this. That same day I told my wife, if Spirit Works could manifest their intentions in their whiskeys as clearly as they did with their white spirits, then they would have something very special.

The whiskey was distilled in one season from a fermented mash of 100% Organic California Red Winter Wheat. Post distillation, new charred oak barrels are filled with the spirit and left to rest. True to the Bottled in Bond’s legal requirements, the whiskey was then aged for a minimum of 4 years and bottled at 50% ABV.

Making whiskey takes patients and vision. And, in between runs of vodka and gin, Ashby and current head distiller Lauren Patz have slowly built an aging stock of 53 gallon barrels full of whiskey. Two yeas passed before they bottle their first barrel while others continued their slow maturation. And now, five years later, my hopeful excitement has been realized. Not only have they made some of the best California Whiskey but, Spirit Works Bottled-in-Bond Wheat Whiskey is one of the best new American Whiskeys released in 2019.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: On the nose there is warm whole wheat bread and endives. Layered underneath those top aromas are strong notes of raisins, brandy cherries, and fresh cut oak. As the whiskey breaths lighter notes of candied orange peal and vanilla float to the top.

Palate: At first sip the whiskey is soft and slides across your tongue. On the palate the whiskey opens with notes of oak and burnt sugar which are followed by sweet caramel and cloves. Initially the whiskey starts slightly bitter but after the second and third sip the bitterness completely fades away and is just big bold flavors of cinnamon and sugar.

Finish: After swallowing, the tongue tingles from the higher proof but once the palate adjusts the finish is long light and dry with notes of vanilla, fresh peaches, and a mixture of bergamot and baking spices. As it slowly fades you are left with faint oak tannins that invite you back to the glass to take another sip.

Conclusion: Spirit Works Bottled-in-Bond Wheat Whiskey is a big and bold whiskey with lots of youthful character that is a joy to drink. Fans of their whiskey will love this new bottling and at 50% ABV the whiskey blossoms with a little bit of water or served over one large chunk of ice. The whiskey also does very well in a number of classic cocktails like the Old Fashioned and Manhattan. While I'm not usually a big fan of Old Fashioneds the whiskey really sung in the drink. With just a little bit of sugar, bitters, and an orange peal, the whiskey popped and at 100 proof the drink wasn't completely watered down by the time you get to the end. If you are in Northern California, I highly recommend making the trip to Sebastopol and picking up a bottle.

Review: Workhorse Rye Virgin Cask California Rye Whiskey

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Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party.

AT A GLANCE

• Owned by: Workhorse Rye

• Distilled at: Sutherland Distilling Co. in Livermore, CA

• Still Type: Hybrid Still

• Spirit Type: Rye Whiskey

• Strength: 50% ABV

• Price: $80

In 2011, Rob Easter founded Workhouse Rye to be a “progressive and sustainable” producer of whiskey and bitters. For the past eight years Easter has operated as an itinerant distiller, renting still time and space from distilleries to ferment, distill, and mature his whiskeys. From 2012-2014, Easter was able to refined his distilling chops at Kings County Distillery in Brooklyn, New York helping to develop their award winning Peated Bourbon. Since 2014, Easter has focused on sourcing most of his grains direct from farmers who are growing non-irrigated heirloom varieties of rye, wheat, corn and barley. Hybridized and GMO grains have been designed to maximize starch production and respond positively to modern farming techniques, (irrigation, fertilizers and pesticides), the consequence however is that these plants has lost a multitude of other compounds that added flavor and depth of character when made into bread or distilled into whiskey. For Easter, he has to use more than 1000 pounds of grain to make one barrel of whiskey, but he believes that despite the lower yield, these grains result in a better spirit that is also less taxing on the environment.

Each expression of Workhorse begins with the same mash bill of 70% west coast rye, 20% malted barley, and 10% malted wheat. The mash is fermented, pot distilled, and then filled in a variety of barrels. As the name infers, Workhorse Rye’s Virgin Cask is a Rye Whiskey as defined by the US Government because of its mash bill (min 51% Rye) how its distilled (below 80% ABV), and how it is matured (barreled below 62.5% ABV in charred new oak barrels). For this expression of Virgin Cask, it was matured for one year, and bottled at 50% ABV.

In 2019, Workhorse Rye’s Virgin Cask California Rye Whiskey earned a silver medal from the American Distilling Institute’s Judging of Craft Spirits.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: First thing you notice on the nose is a grainy sweetness that is both floral and fruity with notes of green apple, nectarine and dark chocolate cherries, under girded by soft aromas of toasted oak.

Palate: At 50% ABV the palate is pleasantly smooth and full bodied. The flavor is strong with grain and wood notes up front followed with lighter flavors of nectarine and grape skins. The palate also has a soft spice character mixed with the flavor of homemade marshmallows without the intense sweetness.

Finish: On the finish the whiskey blossoms and then gently fades with light notes of white grape juice and raspberries.

Conclusion: Workhorse Virgin Cask is a beautiful example of heirloom rye grown, distilled and matured in California. In the shadow of Mt. Diablo, this whiskey soaked in the soft cool marine air and captures a beautiful snapshot of the terrior of California. It has elements that will please both fans of traditional rye whiskey and those who love the restrained and elegant California wines.

Review: Workhorse Rye Redhorse Whiskey

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Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party.

AT A GLANCE

• Owned by: Workhorse Rye

• Distilled at: Sutherland Distilling Co. in Livermore, CA

• Still Type: Hybrid Still

• Spirit Type: Whiskey distilled from Rye

• Strength: 60% ABV

• Price: ~$35 (200ml)

In 2011, Rob Easter founded Workhouse Rye to be a “progressive and sustainable” producer of whiskey and bitters. For the past eight years Easter has operated as an itinerant distiller, renting still time and space from distilleries to ferment, distill, and mature his whiskeys. From 2012-2014, Easter was able to refined his distilling chops at Kings County Distillery in Brooklyn, New York helping to develop their award winning Peated Bourbon. Since 2014, Easter has focused on sourcing most of his grains direct from farmer who are growing non-irrigated heirloom varieties of rye, wheat, corn and barley. Hybridized and GMO grains have been designed to maximize starch production and respond positively to modern farming techniques, (irrigation, fertilizers and pesticides), the consequence however is that these plants has lost a multitude of other compounds that added flavor and depth of character when made into bread or distilled into whiskey. For Easter, he has to use more than 1000 pounds of grain to make one barrel of whiskey, but he believes that despite the lower yield, these grains result in a better spirit that is also less taxing on the environment.

Each expression of Workhorse begins with the same mash bill of 70% west coast rye, 20% malted barley, and 10% malted wheat. The mash is fermented, pot distilled, and then filled in a variety of barrels. US labeling laws for rye whiskey require the spirit to be aged in charred new oak barrels, but because Redhorse matures in used wine barrels, it is just labeled whiskey. For this particular bottling, Easter aged the whiskey for two years in used Broc Cellers Syrah casks before being bottled at 60% ABV.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: On the nose there are fantastic aromas of a nutty Manzanilla sherry intermixed with notes of dried dates, raisins and prunes compote cooked with cinnamon sticks. As the whiskey breaths aromas of dark cherries and chocolate strawberries start to break through.

Palate: On the palate the whiskey is intense with big flavors of cinnamon spice, dried fruit and hazelnuts. With a little water the flavor broadens and opens with more oak notes from the barrel and a touch of milk chocolate.

Finish: The finish lingers with notes of roasted nuts, baked apples and a touch of orange blossom honey.

Conclusion: Redhorse Whiskey is an intense and decadent whiskey that should be sipped over a large ice cube or used to make a fantastic Manhattan. Drinkers who like nutty sherries should search this out and sip judiciously.

Review: Spirit Works Old Tom Gin

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Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party.

AT A GLANCE

• Distilled & Owned by: Spirit Works Distillery in Sebastopol, California

• Still Type: Hybrid Still

• Spirit Type: Old Tom Gin

• Strength: 44.9% ABV

• Price: $32 (375ml)

Founded by Timo and Ashby Marshall, Spirit Works Distillery is a grain-to-glass distillery situated in downtown Sebastopol, California that specializes in a variety of whiskeys and gins. For more than five years, Timo and Ashby have been leading a dedicated team producing some of the best spirits in the state.

Their new distillery exclusive is Old Tom Gin. According to gin expert David T. Smith, in his Forgotten Spirits & Long Lost Liqueurs, old tom gins were invented during England’s 18th century “Gin Craze” as a means to hide the poor quality of the base spirit with sugar or with more intense botanicals. Today, quality neutral spirit to make gin is not an issue, but old tom gin has made a resurgence in part because it works very well in a number of classic cocktails.

Spirit Works’ Old Tom began as the brain child of Timo and starts with the classic gin botanicals of juniper, coriander, angelica root, cardamom, lemon and orange zest, rounded out with the addition of orris and licorice root. After distillation, the gin is rested for a three months in used wheat whiskey barrels and then sweetened with a little bit of local organic honey. This rest period gives the gin a light amber color and with the honey creates a nice round mouthfeel.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: The nose is lovely and inviting with notes of lemon and juniper followed with just a touch of honey and vanilla. Underneath the top aromas there is an interesting earthy aroma like toasted bread and a hint of spice that is reminiscent of citrus, juniper and rye.

Palate: On the palate the gin starts with a little heat but that quickly subsides into welcoming flavors of juniper, honey, and citrus that are slightly mellowed with a little woodiness. The honey gives the gin a very subtle sweetness, but it is balanced just perfectly, with no cloying sugar coating the palate, just nice and clean.

Finish: The finish is long with light notes of honey followed by warm oak character and just a touch of bitterness from the juniper.

Conclusion: Spirit Works Old Tom is a delicious example of the category and it is extremely versatile. Despite its near 90 proof bottling strength, the gin is easy to sip neat, and works well stirred on ice and served up with a twist. This old tom also work extremely well in classic gin cocktails like the Martinez and the Negroni. With this distillery exclusive, Spirit Works has once again demonstrated their incredible skill, and gives gin fan yet another reason to make the trek to Sebastopol and stock up on this fantastic spirit.

Review: Astral Pacific Gin

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Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party. Photo by The Spirit Guild

AT A GLANCE

• Distilled & Owned by: The Spirit Guild in Los Angeles, CA

• Still Type: Pot Still

• Spirit Type: Contemporary Gin

• Strength: 43% ABV

• Price: $35

Founded in 2012 by Miller Duvall and Morgan McLachlan, The Spirit Guild is a beautiful fruit to glass distillery in LA’s Arts District. Duvall’s family has been farming in California for six generations which partially inspired their decision to use state grown agriculture to distill into spirits. The base of their gin starts off as whole clementines which are fermented and distilled into a neutral brandy. The neutral brandy is then redistilled with juniper, coriander, angelica, cinnamon, grapefruit peel, clementine peel, orange tree leaves, pink peppercorn, pistachio nuts, sage, and orris root. After distillation, the gin is proofed to bring the alcohol content down to 43% ABV before bottling.

If you happen to be in the vicinity of downtown LA, definitely put The Spirit Guild on your list of places to visit. Their tasting room, in the front of the distillery, is an incredibly beautiful space with west facing stain glass windows that allow the bright Southern California sunshine to pour through and bathe the space in warmth and color.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: The gin has a fragrant aroma of pine trees and fresh orange juice followed by an herbaceous note of oregano and a bright hit of clementine.

Palate: On the palate the gin is medium bodied and a little hot on the tongue. The flavors start with spicy notes of of juniper and black pepper which is balanced with a light orange sweetness.

Finish: On the finish the citrus character carries through with lingering flavor of grapefruit peal and a light bitter pith sensation.

Conclusion: Astral Pacific Gin is an interesting combination of juniper and multiple layers of citrus. As a contemporary gin that puts less emphasis on the juniper and more other other botanical, using a citrus brandy as the base is a unique and smart way to add layers of complexity. Overall, Astral Pacific is an interesting gin that lends itself to mixing in spirit forward cocktails and would be appreciated most by those that like citrus forward gins.