Review: Kanosuke Hioki Pot Still Japanese Whisky
Sample bottle provided by Kanosuke.
AT A GLANCE
Owned by: Komasa Jyozo
Distilled & Bottled by: Hioki Distillery, Hioki, Japan
Spirit Type: Pot Still Japanese Whisky
Mash Bill: Malted and Unmalted Balrey
Still Type: Vacuum Pot Stills
Age: NAS (3-5 years)
Strength: 51% ABV
Price: $110
The Hioki distillery is owned by the Komasa family who have been making mugi (barley) shochu since 1883. Today, the distillery has seven stainless steel vacuum pot still which the use for making shochus from barley, sweet potatoes, and rice, as well as a grain whisky made from a mash of malted and unmalted barley. According to the distillery, the wash is fermented for 5 days and reaches 14% ABV, about double compared to their malt wash at Kanosuke. They then double distill the wash using their vacuum stills which they believe allows them to extract more flavor from the grain without as many harsh alcohols and congeners. After distillation, the spirit is aged for a minimum of three years in a combination of new American oak barrels and ex-bourbon barrels. Some of this grain whiskey is then bottled, non-chill filtered at 51% ABV for their Hioki Pot Still Japanese Whisky and some is used to make their Kanosuke blended whisky.
TASTING NOTES
Nose: The whisky has a distinct floral aroma like fresh cut flowers combined with a touch of oak. As the whisky opens sweeter notes of cooked grain and vanilla come to great you.
Palate: The whisky has the distinct flavor of un-malted barley that comes through on the first sip. There is a bright almost sour element that combines with an underlying creaminess almost like buttermilk biscuits and lemon zest. There is also a touch of spiciness that is common with unmalted barley that is more subtle than the spiciness found in rye.
Finish: The finish is light with a warming sensation on the lips and chest from the alcohol but there is also a vanilla sweetness from the oak that floats in the background.
Conclusion: Hioki Post Still Japanese Whisky is an interesting spirit worth sampling however, if you are unfamiliar with other pot still whiskies you may find this a bit unusual. Neat and at room temperature the whisky is good but the sweetness of the whisky really opens with just a splash or water or over a large ice cube. I think this whisky would also work nicely in an Old Fashioned. Here again like with the Kanosuke Single Malt, I think the Hioki Pot Still will show better after more time in the barrel and the underlying qualities of the spirit are allowed to mature. Right now, $110 feels a bit steep but if you told me that they would have an 8 year old version at the same price and a bit more complexity then we are in the ballpark for a full-throated indorsement. Kanosuke is showing incredible potential and if you want to see them survive long enough to produce fantastic whisky there is plenty enough to enjoy now.