Review: Kanosuke Double Distillery Japanese Whisky

Sample bottle provided by Kanosuke.

AT A GLANCE

• Owned by: Komasa Jyozo

  Distilled by: Kanosuke Distillery & Hiokio Distillery, Hioki, Japan

• Blended and Bottled by: Kanosuke Distillery

• Spirit Type: Blended Japanese Whisky

• Mash Bill: Malted and Unmalted Balrey

• Still Type: Vacuum & non-vacumm Pot Stills

• Age: NAS (3-5 years)

• Strength: 53% ABV

• Price: $120

Kanosuke Double Distillery Japanese Blended Whisky is the merging of malt and grain whiskies made by the Komasa family at their sister distilleries. The Kanosuke distillery is home to their single malt production while their grain whisky comes from their Hioki distillery, which is about a 10 minute drive down the road. Both distilleries are situated on what is known as Kagoshima's mellow coast. The name refers more the laid back are relaxed character of the region but the weather goes through some dramatic temperature changes throughout the year which aids the whisky's movement in and out of the barrels. The distilleries are situated in a subtropical climate with hot and humid summers and mild winters which are tempered by their proximity to the East China Sea. Between the two distilleries they have 10 pot stills and age their whiskies in five different barrels which gives them a very broad pallet of flavors to draw from to create each expression. For their Double Distillery whisky, they do not specify a mixture of certain barrels so it is fair to assume they are blending for a particular flavor profile rather than a percentage of each barrel type.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: On the nose you notice distinct elements of the constituent whiskies. There is the creamy maltiness and stone fruit elements from the single malt and there are the spicy almost citrus elements coming from the pot still whisky. Both elements layer together nicely.

Palate: The whisky is busting on the palate with flavors of stone fruit, lemon, creamy biscuits, vanilla wafers, toasted oak, hazelnut and there is a distinct, yet subtle peat note that supports the rest of the flavors.

Finish: The finish has an intense drying sensation that calls you back for another sip. The flavor of the whisky lingers for a long time on notes of ripe plum, vanilla, oak, and a light hint of spice from the unmalted barley.

Conclusion: Blended whiskies are sometimes looked down upon as only being fit for highballs or mixing. But Kanosuke's Double Distillery Japanese Whisky is an excellent example of how in the right hands the whole can be greater than the sum of its parts. This blend finds all the best elements for both the Kanosuke Single Malt and the Hioki Pot Still and merges them seamlessly into a new singular whole. The whiskey shows great character and maturity and justifies its $120 suggested retail price. This is a great spirit and it is a definite buy for any fan of Japanese whisky.

Review: Kanosuke Hioki Pot Still Japanese Whisky

Sample bottle provided by Kanosuke.

AT A GLANCE

• Owned by: Komasa Jyozo

  Distilled & Bottled by: Hioki Distillery, Hioki, Japan

• Spirit Type: Pot Still Japanese Whisky

• Mash Bill: Malted and Unmalted Balrey

• Still Type: Vacuum Pot Stills

• Age: NAS (3-5 years)

• Strength: 51% ABV

• Price: $110

The Hioki distillery is owned by the Komasa family who have been making mugi (barley) shochu since 1883. Today, the distillery has seven stainless steel vacuum pot still which the use for making shochus from barley, sweet potatoes, and rice, as well as a grain whisky made from a mash of malted and unmalted barley. According to the distillery, the wash is fermented for 5 days and reaches 14% ABV, about double compared to their malt wash at Kanosuke. They then double distill the wash using their vacuum stills which they believe allows them to extract more flavor from the grain without as many harsh alcohols and congeners. After distillation, the spirit is aged for a minimum of three years in a combination of new American oak barrels and ex-bourbon barrels. Some of this grain whiskey is then bottled, non-chill filtered at 51% ABV for their Hioki Pot Still Japanese Whisky and some is used to make their Kanosuke blended whisky.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: The whisky has a distinct floral aroma like fresh cut flowers combined with a touch of oak. As the whisky opens sweeter notes of cooked grain and vanilla come to great you.

Palate: The whisky has the distinct flavor of un-malted barley that comes through on the first sip. There is a bright almost sour element that combines with an underlying creaminess almost like buttermilk biscuits and lemon zest. There is also a touch of spiciness that is common with unmalted barley that is more subtle than the spiciness found in rye.

Finish: The finish is light with a warming sensation on the lips and chest from the alcohol but there is also a vanilla sweetness from the oak that floats in the background.

Conclusion: Hioki Post Still Japanese Whisky is an interesting spirit worth sampling however, if you are unfamiliar with other pot still whiskies you may find this a bit unusual. Neat and at room temperature the whisky is good but the sweetness of the whisky really opens with just a splash or water or over a large ice cube. I think this whisky would also work nicely in an Old Fashioned. Here again like with the Kanosuke Single Malt, I think the Hioki Pot Still will show better after more time in the barrel and the underlying qualities of the spirit are allowed to mature. Right now, $110 feels a bit steep but if you told me that they would have an 8 year old version at the same price and a bit more complexity then we are in the ballpark for a full-throated indorsement. Kanosuke is showing incredible potential and if you want to see them survive long enough to produce fantastic whisky there is plenty enough to enjoy now.