EZdrinking

Spirit Reviews, Tasting Events and Consulting

Searching for the world's best drinks and what makes them extraordinary. EZdrinking is a drinks blog by Eric Zandona that focuses on distilled spirits, wine, craft beer and specialty coffee. Here you can find reviews of drinks, drink books, articles about current & historical trends, as well as how to make liqueurs, bitters, and other spirit based drinks at home.

Filtering by Category: Zeitgeist

Distillery Tourism on the Rise: Big Benefits for Local Communities

Eighty-two years ago, when
Prohibition was repealed, laws
treated distilleries as industrial factories producing goods for a national market, not as local producers of artisan spirits. Laws establishing the three-tier and state control distribution systems after repeal did not take into consideration that small-scale distillers would want to sell spirits direct to consumers in their local market. At the time, there was no real reason for states to consider such a thing. Both before and after prohibition, the distilling industry experienced a period of significant consolidation. It wasn’t until 1982, nearly half a century after prohibition’s repeal, that Jörg Rupf and Hubert Germain-Robin (together with Ansley Coale) founded the first two micro-distilleries and inaugurated the craft-distilling renaissance.

Until recently, most new craft distilleries were built without tasting rooms because state laws prohibited small distillers from offering samples or selling spirits direct to consumers. However, as the number of small distilleries has continued to grow and consumers have demanded greater freedom to interact with producers, state laws have begun to change. Distillers of all sizes know—and state legislators have started to realize—that allowing consumers direct access to taste and buy spirits from the source increases more than just a distillery’s profitability. Tasting rooms selling samples, bottles and even cocktails made with their spirits has a multiplier effect that spreads through local and state economies.

Although the current national boom in the popularity of bourbon has been
good for Kentucky, distillery tourism in the Bluegrass State has had a significant and positive impact on the state’s economy. In 1999, the Kentucky Distillers’ Association (KDA) founded the Kentucky Bourbon Trail with six distilleries. Today the tour has nine heritage distilleries and another nine distilleries on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail Craft Tour. Visitors are allowed to sample bourbon and purchase bottles. The Kentucky Bourbon Trail drew 627,032 individual visits to member distilleries, and the Craft Tour an additional 96,471 visits in 2014. In the economic impact report released in 2014, KDA estimates that 73% of the visitors on the trail come to Kentucky specifically to visit distilleries. Based on the approximately 15,000 visitors that turned in their passports annually, KDA estimates that bourbon tourism generated more than $5 million in lodging, transportation, meals and other purchases. Out of that, about $615,000 went to state and local governments in the form of sales taxes, lodging taxes, income taxes and payroll taxes. That $5 million also supports about 104 jobs state wide, for a total increase in economic activity of $7.5 million. With individual distilleries on the Craft Tour reporting estimates of 20,000 visitors annually, it is likely the overall economic impact is far greater.

In New York State, distillery tourism is growing in popularity and the economic benefits are reaching far beyond the money tourists spend on lodging, transportation and meals. In 2007, New York passed the Farm Distillery Act, which allowed small-scale distillers to produce 35,000 gallons of liquor per year, offer three samples of their spirits, and sell bottles directly to consumers as long as at least 50% of the agricultural products used to make the spirits were grown in New York. This law opened the door for distillery tourism and similar economic benefits in lodging, transportation, meals and other retail purchases seen in Kentucky. However, by tying the law to the use of stategrown agricultural products, the economic effects of distillery tourism have 28 distiller multiplied across New York’s agricultural sector and a number of supporting industries. Christopher Williams, chief distiller, blender and distillery manager for Coppersea Distilling, explained that when he started, there was no way to buy New York-grown and malted barley. In response, Williams worked with a local farmer to grow the type of barley and rye needed for his whiskeys, and then he malted it himself. That local farmer is now one of the largest suppliers of New York-grown barley used by brewers and distillers in the state. Instead of growing low-quality grains for animal feed, which has a low market value, the farmer can charge a premium for high-quality grain used by brewers and distillers.

Coppersea, ever committed to using local and sustainable practices in the creation of their spirits, has even partnered with a New York cooperage to  create barrels from New York-grown white oak. By including a mandate for the use of New York-grown agricultural products, the state has fostered an environment that has spawned dozens of new businesses, which in turn have created a new pool of good paying jobs, for workers who pay taxes and recirculate their earnings in the local economy.

In 2014, the farm distillery law was amended to allow farm distilleries to serve full pours of their spirits as well as cocktails. The state also increased the total allowable production to 75,000 gallons annually and increased the mandate
for state-grown produce from 50 to 75%. These new amendments will allow New York farm distillers to increase their profitability from distillery tourism, and multiply its effects through increased demand for state-grown agricultural products, locally produced malt and even New York-coopered barrels.

Seeing the increase in economic activity and tax revenue from profitable craft distilleries, a number of states are starting to adopt laws that encourage distillery tourism. About a dozen states now allow craft distilleries to open one or more satellite tasting rooms from which they can sample their spirits, serve cocktails, and even sell their spirits by the bottle for off premise consumption. Such tasting rooms increase a distillery’s exposure and allow consumers to taste spirits in the way most people are used to, as  cocktails. The increased exposure not only improves profitability of a distillery, but a satellite tasting room can bring vitality to a new neighborhood as well as added jobs with all of the associated benefits.
In New Mexico, craft distillers such as Santa Fe Spirits are allowed to operate
two satellite tasting rooms. Even though their distillery is located on the far west side of town, Santa Fe Spirits is able to have a lovely tasting room downtown that sells individual samples, flights of samples, cocktails and bottles for customers to take home. This location also has a back room that can be rented out for private tasting events and seminars where groups can learn about the products that Santa Fe Spirits makes. Molly Norton, the  former tasting room manager at Santa Fe Spirits, explained that they were allowed to serve and sell any New Mexico-produced spirit, which increased the variety of cocktails they could serve and helped promote the entire local industry.

Despite the advantages states have garnered from promoting their local distilling industry, a number of states, including California, have been slow to act, resulting in a number of negative consequences. Until recently, distilleries in California were not allowed to have tasting rooms or to charge for samples. St. George Spirits found an expensive workaround by partnering with separate on-site companies to operate a bar to serve their spirits and a liquor store to sell bottles. However, most distilleries don’t have the space or level of customer interest to entice another company to invest in expensive liquor licenses to sell a single brand. On January 1, 2014, California enacted legislation that allows distilleries to conduct paid on-site tastings. While that increased the opportunity for promotion, the sale of six ¼ oz samples proved to be small victory.

Currently before the California state legislature is AB 1295, which would allow small California distillers to serve cocktails and sell up to three bottles per person per day. Distilleries would even gain the ability to operate a full-service restaurant selling their spirits. This bill has the potential to put California’s small-scale distillers fully back into competition with other states with robust laws encouraging distillery tourism.

Until then, California, Alabama, Connecticut, Georgia, Minnesota, Mississippi, Oklahoma and South Dakota all prohibit direct bottle sales and, in general, have some of the most restrictive laws for small-scale distillers. This restrictiveness does nothing to protect public safety or limit the abuse of alcohol. Instead, these laws work against the states’ interests to create jobs, generate tax revenue, and support local agriculture. Meanwhile, states including Kentucky, New York and New Mexico have demonstrated that, by enacting laws that promote distillery tourism, there are clear economic benefits and no increase in the social ills commonly used as excuses to limit the production, sale and consumption of alcohol. 

Originally published in Distiller Magazine (Fall 2015): 27-28 

From bark to Bourbon: The Wild Yeast of Firestone & Robertson Distilling Co.

Design by Gail Sands

Yeast is an amazing organism. It’s a fungus, one we encounter every day—not  only through the fermented beverages we drink and the bread we eat, but also in the very air we breath. For millennia, humankind collaborated with wild yeast to produce wine, beer and bread, yet with no understanding how it functioned on a molecular level. With the invention of  the microscope, we developed the skills and techniques to domesticate a few  strains of yeast suitable to our needs, but the vast majority remain wild, floating on the wind, ready to be discovered (or avoided).

In 2009, Rob Arnold moved from Tennessee to Dallas to begin a doctoral program in biochemistry. Having earned a bachelor’s degree in microbiology, Arnold was at home in the labs of the University of Texas. He spent many of his days isolating marine bacteria from samples of sea water. Yet, in his off time, Arnold began to dream of starting a distillery. His family had been in the alcohol industry for generations, and it seemed to him the right avenue for applying his skills and passion.

As Arnold began exploring the idea of distilling, he met Leonard Firestone and Troy Robertson, who were already in the process of starting a distillery in Fort Worth. As the three men talked, they realized they shared a common vision, and that each possessed skills valuable to a potential collaboration. Even from the beginning, Firestone and Robertson had known that they wanted a proprietary yeast strain for their wheated bourbon. And Arnold seemed to be the right man to make that a reality.

In September 2010, not long after the founding of the Firestone & Robertson Distilling Company, Arnold joined the  team and went to work looking for yeast. But to do it right,  he was going to need a lab. He reached out to local colleges, and Professor Dean Williams of Texas Christian University responded. Williams helped Arnold set up a lab, advised him on using equipment, and even helped him gain adjunct faculty status so he could come and go at the University as needed.

Arnold immediately began collecting samples from the distillery, which is located in a pre-Prohibition brick warehouse. He even took samples from his own home. Arnold applied the samples to petri dishes and waited to see what would grow. The petri dishes, or plates, contained a growing medium similar
to wort, intended to encourage the growth of yeast species suited to fermentation. However, when Arnold examined his first set of plates, none contained a desirable yeast strain.

Because not all yeast species are capable of fermenting the complex sugars within a bourbon mash into alcohol, the three focused specifically on finding Saccharomyces cerevisiae, a variety widely used by brewers and winemakers. Due to millennia  of selective pressure, S. cerevisiae has evolved into an effective fermenter of maltose, capable of surviving in an alcohol solution at concentrations deadly to most other bacteria and micro-organisms.

As the search for S. cerevisiae continued, Arnold headed out of Fort Worth to Rancho Hielo Brazos in Glen Rose, Texas. The ranch manager there, as it turned out, happened to have a background in botany. Arnold spent half a day with the ranch manager traversing the property, collecting samples from the dirt and a variety of plants. Back at the lab, the 20 samples he collected netted hundreds of different bacteria and fungi, including yeast.

Once again, Arnold went through the work of isolating each of the yeast strains by plating and re-plating them repeatedly. In the end, the 20 samples Arnold brought back from the ranch yielded 100 separate yeast strains. To whittle that number down to a manageable size, he used a technique  called Polymerase Chain Reaction to isolate the DNA of each strain. Upon analysis, it turned out 11 of the 100 strains were S. cerevisiae. Arnold checked his notes, and discovered that all 11 came from just three sources on the ranch: a cactus fruit,  an oak tree and a pecan tree.

Arnold then tested his 11 wild yeast strains against a couple of commercial strains in a series of fermentation trials. For a month, he pitched these yeasts into a standardized wort and recorded when fermentation began, when it stopped, and how well each strain consumed the available sugars. He noticed that almost all of the wild S. cerevisiae strains began fermenting right away, although most stalled after 36 hours. Out of the 11 wild yeast strains, only three were capable of fully fermenting the wort and able to hold up to alcohol without dying.

The team ran fermentation results from the final three wild strains, plus a commercial strain, through a blind sensory analysis. They nosed and tasted the distiller’s beer and the white  dog resulting from each yeast strain to see which they liked best. All three picked the same strain as their clear favorite, which they named Brazos.

Arnold checked his notes, and he and the team were delighted to find that all their effort had paid off—not only had they all picked the same wild yeast, but it also came from the same source: a pecan nut. Native to Texas and a number of other states, the pecan tree (Carya illinoinensis) has been the
official state tree of Texas since 1906. 

From the beginning, Firestone and Robertson had dreamed of creating a Texas bourbon that represents the home that they love. It was pure serendipity that, after all of Arnold’s hard work to find a wild yeast strain that could imbue their bourbon with the character of Texas, they found it waiting on a  Texas pecan nut. To protect all that they had accomplished, their Brazos yeast strain is now stored in deep freezers at the distillery as well as at a couple of universities in the area. If Firestone & Robertson ever needed to start from scratch, they have a number of ready samples stored for just such a purpose.

Once they settled on Brazos as their house yeast strain, they went into high gear distilling and laying down barrels of bourbon to age. Firestone & Robertson are making wheated bourbon. The wheat, corn and barley are milled, mashed, then fermented in open stainless steel fermenters using the
Brazos yeast strain. Once fermentation is complete, the wash is pumped into the stills grain and all. Firestone & Robertson stills are a pot-column hybrid, custom built by Vendome Copper & Brass Works, designed so they can distill bourbon in a single pass.

When enough hearts are collected, they pour the spirit into 53 gallon barrels from Independent Stave. Slowly but surely  the stacked barrels are filling up the open floor plan of their brick warehouse, with the oldest barrels in a loft overlooking the distillery floor. According to Arnold, the brick helps to moderate the hot summer temperatures, which can reach into the 100s, and also keeps temperatures stable through the  mild winters.

In the loft, a barrel marked “Brazos” has been quietly sitting  for three years, working its magic with the spirit inside. Arnold, using a copper whiskey thief, drew a small sample and poured it into a nosing glass. Three years in, their bourbon has a fantastic color of deep amber and burnished copper. A nice aroma of vanilla, cinnamon and caramel danced in concert with the oak just above the rim of the glass. Higher notes of floral and fruity esters lingered faintly in the background. At first taste there is an immediate impression of young wood mingled with walnuts, and a lingering maple syrup sweetness that floats on the tongue. Even at barrel strength the bourbon  was supple and smooth, without any harsh heat.

Firestone & Robertson is one of a very small group of distilleries to isolate a wild yeast strain for making spirits. The micro-distilling industry’s vast opportunities for artistry and creativity drive their passion. In the meantime, their bourbon is developing a uniquely Texas flavor born of the pecan trees
in the watershed of the Brazos River.

Originally published as part of the "Defining Craft" series in Distiller Magazine (Summer 2015): 90-92.

Review: Spirit Works Barrel Gin

Free sample bottle received as a gift from 3rd party.

Barrel Gin, distilled by Spirit Works Distillery and bottled at 45% ABV.

Price Range: $50-$60

Spirit Works Distillery is owned and operated by the husband-and-wife team, Timo and Ashby Marshall. Ashby is their head distiller and Timo works as tour guide, operations manage, brand ambassador and a number of other roles. 

Spirit Works Distillery is located in downtown Sebastopol, in a newly developed business district called The Barlow. In addition to Spirit Works The Barlow brings together a number of local art, food and beverage producers including a winery, a brewpub and coffee roaster. I highly recommend taking their tour and visiting some of the other cool shops.

Timo told me that at first they hadn't planned to make an aged gin but I am glad they did. Barrel Gin starts off as their regular gin which is distilled with juniper, orris root, angelica, cardamom, coriander, hibiscus and hand-zested orange and lemon peel. Some of the botanicals are macerated in the still and some are place in a gin basket. After the gin has been distilled, some of it ages in new American White Oak barrels for several months. 

Tasting Notes

Nose: Barrel Gin smelled of dried orange peal, baking spices, and a faint, underlying sweetness like maraschino cherries.

Palate: Barrel Gin tasted of bright citrus, with a smooth sweet flavor of fresh table grapes.

Finish: After swallowing the flavors lingered for a little while and my mouth had a pleasant warm sensation without any burn.

Conclusion: For those who like aged gins, Barrel Gin is a great addition to any liquor cabinet. I particularly like how the nose has begun to develop some of the rich spicy notes that come from barrel aging while maintaining some of the fresh flavors of their regular gin. Very well executed and Barrel Gin makes me even more excited for their upcoming whiskeys.

How to Make Homemade Nocino Part 2

Two months ago I wrote about beginning the process of making homemade nocino, an Italian walnut liqueur. Well the day has arrived to decant the two jugs of nocino into smaller jars. Over the past two months these walnut, sugar,and alcohol mixtures have transitioned from greenish brown to an almost black liquid. As an aside, the pigment from walnut skins has been used for centuries as an ink and dye and, as I found out, if you spill some on your kitchen counter without wiping it up right away, it will stain that too. 

Vanilla pods, Vietnamese Cinnamon, Star Anise, and Whole Cloves

One of the primary distinguishing factors of one nocino to another are the spices used to flavor the liqueur. I looked at a number of recipes and the four most common spices were cinnamon, clove, vanilla, and lemon peel. The nocino that Bill Owens gave me was flavored with cinnamon and star anise, which from my research is an unusual combination but it tastes really good so I decided to add it to my list of spices. One important decision at this point was to determine which of the three common varieties of cinnamon to use. When I created my spirit aroma kit I included two different types of cinnamon so I turned to it for help. The Vietnamese cinnamon has a pleasant yet spicy note like cinnamon and maple syrup over oatmeal, while the Ceylon cinnamon was hot and sweet like a fireball candy. For the nocino, the Vietnamese cinnamon seemed most appropriate. Another part of my experiment was to make half the nocino with lemon peel and half with out. In the pictures above, the jar with the white lid also included lemon peel. When I tasted them, both were still pretty bitter but the nocino with lemon had a much dryer finish. 

Nocino Spice Experiments

Finally, before I began the process of decanting each jug into smaller jars I decided on a couple of spice combinations to see what I like best.

1. Cinnamon & Clove 2. Cinnamon & Star Anise 3. Cinnamon, Clove, Star Anise, Vanilla 4. Vanilla & Star Anise 5. Lemon, Cinnamon & Clove 6. Lemon, Cinnamon & Star Anise 7. Lemon, Cinnamon, Clove, Star Anise, Vanilla 8. Lemon, Vanilla & Star Anise.

After I filled the jars with the right spices labeled and labeled them I strained the contents of the first nocino jug into a large glass dispenser with a nozzle that made filling each jar really easy (this was my wife's idea). I'd like to say this went smoothly but I made a bit of a mess with nocino spilling and splashing on the counter top and floor. But, once the first jug was decanted I filled and topped the first four spice experiments. With a little left over, I decided to fill a half pint jar without any spices to see how the nocino ages just on its own. Decanting the second jug of nocino went a little smother than the first time but there was still some spillage from one jug to the other. Despite looking fuller, the second jug, which had the lemon peel, contained a little less fluid and I was only able to fill 3 and 3/4 pint jars (pictured in the gallery below).

Now the jars of nocino with their labels fix and lids securely screwed on were placed in a cool dark corner of our apartment to age for another eight months. Once the eight months has elapsed I will taste them again and hopefully settle on a single recipe that I like the most. If the bitterness has smoothed out enough I will think about proofing them down a bit, bottling and giving them away as gifts.

In the mean time I will continue to enjoy the nocino I have in my cabinet and dream of next year's harvest.

Cheers!

Read Part 1                          Continue to Part 3