EZdrinking

Spirit Reviews, Tasting Events and Consulting

Searching for the world's best drinks and what makes them extraordinary. EZdrinking is a drinks blog by Eric Zandona that focuses on distilled spirits, wine, craft beer and specialty coffee. Here you can find reviews of drinks, drink books, articles about current & historical trends, as well as how to make liqueurs, bitters, and other spirit based drinks at home.

No you should not expect to pay $10 per year of age for a bottle of Bourbon or Rye Whiskey

Recently I have been spending more time lurking on the r/bourbon subreddit and watching a variety of Whiskey Tube channels to get a sense of how engaged consumers are talking about American whiskey and what they think is worth spending their money on. One of the more common axioms in these spaces is the idea that a fair retail price for a bottle of bourbon or rye whiskey is around $10 for each year it aged in a barrel. At first glance I can understand where this idea might have come from but if we interrogate the idea, it quickly breaks down.

Most whiskey fans are well aware of angel’s share, the fact that spirits stored in oak barrels slowly evaporates so the volume of liquid that went in is not how much that comes out after four, eight or twelve years. Because of angel’s share, there is a real cost for distillers to age a whiskey longer because there will be less of it each extra year they wait before bottling. So, in real terms older whiskey costs a distiller more to bottle than younger whiskey. However, as the production capacity of a distillery grows, they are able to produce the same whiskey with greater economies of scale because buying grain by the truck loads or rail cars costs less per pound than by 2000lb totes. The same is also true for any other hard goods like bottles, labels, or closures. Large distilleries are also more efficient with their time since there is less down time for their stills and fermenters compared to small distillers that can only run one or two production shifts with significant down time for their equipment. So generally smaller distilleries have higher fixed cost per bottle because they are less “efficient” with their capital. This is why a blanket price metric doesn’t make a lot of sense.

Many craft bourbons and rye whiskeys are priced higher than $10 per year of age because of these higher fixed costs and a more constrained supply. Garrison Brothers Small Batch Bourbon and Old Crow Bourbon are both aged for three years but the former retails for $80 a bottle and the later sits on the bottom shelf at about $12 for 750ml. Garrison Brothers is pot distilled using a more expensive locally grown corn, and the intense climate in the Texas Hill Country means they have a much higher angel’s share than most Kentucky Bourbons. Despite having the same age statement these are two very different bourbons and even if you don’t know all the exact production details, on taste alone, $30 for Old Crow would be highway robbery and an incredible deal for Garrison Brothers.

Conversely, many great bourbons from the heritage distillers in Kentucky and Tennessee are priced below $10 per year. Russel’s Reserve 10 Year Old Bourbon retails for about $44 and George Dickel Bottled in Bond which ranges between 11 and 13 years old has a suggested retail price of $40! Now I would be willing to pay a little more for these because the quality is there, I also have no interest in paying $100 or more for these whiskeys just because of their age. In reality the price for these whiskeys is not just about age. Weller 12 Year Old has an SRP around $43 but you’d be lucky to find it most places below $150 because of its limited availability and the all the hype around it and Pappy Van Winkle.

Now whether it is worth it to you to pay $200 for Weller 12, $40 for George Dickel BIB at 13 years or less than $20 for the four year old Evan Williams Bottled in Bond is a completely subjective decision informed by your income and what you value. But the idea that it is “fair” to pay $10 per year of age for American whiskey is a silly metric that doesn’t reflect the whiskey market. In reality, this just sounds like a made up “fact” that some salesman came up with as a way to convince people that its ok for them to spend $80 on an otherwise mid 8 year old whiskey.

Buy what you like and spend what you feel comfortable with but I’m sorry to say that setting a fair price for bourbon and rye whiskey is more complicated than simply how long it was aged.

Review: Still Austin “The Musician” Straight Bourbon

Sample bottle provided by Still Austin Whiskey Co.

AT A GLANCE

  • Owned, Distilled and Bottled by: Still Austin Whiskey Co. Austin, TX

  • Spirit Type: Bourbon

  • Mash Bill: 70% White Corn, 25% Elbon Rye, 5% Wildfire Malted Barley

  • Still Type: Column Still

  • Age: 2 Years

  • Strength: 49.2% ABV

  • Price: $45

Three Austin families, the Seals, the Braunbergs, and the Salinas' founded Still Austin Whiskey Company in 2015 with the goal of making Texas bourbon. They use a 42 foot (13m) Scottish built column still to distill their bourbon mash made from 100% Texas grown white corn, rye and malted barley. After the whiskey ages, it is vatted by Master Blender "The Nose" Nancy Fraley and then slowly proofed down over a six month period before bottling. The Musician was the first whiskey released by Still Austin followed later by a rye whiskey call “The Artist”. These names are meant to represent of the innovative people who make Austin unique.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: The nose has aromas of white nectarine, cinnamon, and vanilla. While on the palate there is an initial burst of caramel sweetness followed by a nice rye spice.

Palate: In addition, there are flavors of dry mint, pencil shavings and vanilla.

Finish: The finish is pleasantly soft and light for a bourbon near 50% ABV with lingering fruit and sweet oak flavors.

Conclusion:  Sill Austin has produced a nice, light bourbon that has a good mixture of fruit and spice notes. And even after spending more than two years in the Texas heat, the whiskey is a long way from being over extracted.

The Best Alternative to Buffalo Trace Bourbon

Bottle purchased at retail by EZdrinking.

AT A GLANCE

  • Spirit: Benchmark Bonded Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

  • Owned by: Sazerac Company

  • Distilled and Bottled by: Buffalo Trace Distillery, Frankfort, KY

  • Spirit Type: Bourbon

  • Mash Bill: Buffalo Trace Mashbill #1 (10% or less Rye)

  • Still Type: Column Still

  • Aged: NAS (minimum 4 years)

  • Strength: 50% ABV

  • Price: $20

If you cannot find Buffalo Trace Bourbon in your area, it sells out as soon as it hits liquor store shelves, or you are tired of paying over $30 for this once entry level bourbon, Benchmark Bonded Bourbon is the best alternative out in the market.

Ten years ago, Buffalo Trace Bourbon was easy to find and usually under $20 a bottle. At that time it came in second in a blind tasting I organized for so friends of mine. But, as the craze for Pappy and other older whiskeys from Buffalo Trace Distillery grew, it became harder to find a bottle and more expensive when you did. So, if you are a fan Buffalo Trace but cannot get your hands on it, you need to look for Benchmark Bonded.

Today, Benchmark is named after the survey markers placed by the McAfee brothers who were some of the earliest colonial settlers in Kentucky. When they reached the region north of where Frankfort would be founded, they discovered large numbers of elk, deer and buffalos. The area became known as buffalo trace, a migration route used by the buffalo as they moved through Kentucky. The brand was originally distilled in Louisville, and created by Seagram's in the 1960 as a premium bourbon sold in decanters. The association with the McAfee brothers was added sometime after 1989, when Seagram's sold the brand to Sazerac Company. For many years Benchmark held on as a value brand, sold primarily as McAfee's Benchmark Old No. 8. But in 2019, Sazerac decided to expand the Benchmark line to include five new expressions: the Small Batch (45% ABV), Top Floor (43% ABV), Single Barrel (47.5% ABV), Bonded (50% ABV), and Full Proof (62.5% ABV). I suspect that this expansion was a way for Sazerac to maintain the quality and particular barrel selection process they had for Buffalo Trance while also increasing the supply of a more affordable version of their bourbon.

TASTING NOTEs

Nose: On the nose there are light notes of oak, cream corn, and a hint of vanilla.

Palate: On the palate the bourbon begins sweet with notes of vanilla and then transitions to a more complex flavor of sweetened ice tea and peaches.

Finish: On the finish the whiskey is relatively long with flavors of ripe plum, canned peaches (without the syrup) vanilla and oak.

Conclusion: Benchmark Bonded is a solid bourbon that is great as an everyday whiskey for when you want something enjoyable while your attention is focused doing something else like cooking or spending time with friends or family. It is not the most complex whiskey but at 4 years old and 100 proof this a perfect budget pour for drinking neat, on the rocks, with water, with mixers, or as a cocktail. As Buffalo Trace has crept up in price and gotten more difficult to find on a regular basis, Benchmark Bonded is the best alternative you can find.

Review: Blackland Bourbon

Sample bottle provided by Blackland Distillery

AT A GLANCE

  • Owned, Blended and Bottled by: Blackland Distillery, Fort Worth, Texas

  • Spirit Type: Bourbon

  • Mash Bill: Wheated bourbon

  • Still Type: Pot Still

  • Aged: 70% aged 2 years, 30% 4 years

  • Strength: 41.5% ABV

  • Price: $48

Named for the Blackland Prairie, Markus Kypreos founded Blackland Distillery in 2015, after 15 years of practicing law in Fort Worth, TX. Looking to take a more modern approach to distilling spirits, Kypreos and his head distiller Ezra Cox use an automated iStill distilling system that has created numerous award-winning spirits around the world. Currently, Blackland is distilling their vodka and gin from Texas grown wheat and as well as making bourbon and rye whiskey. The bourbon is distilled from a wheated bourbon mash and then aged in a variety of barrels sizes, which are then vatted to achieve their target flavor profile. According to Blackland, they were supplementing their in-house whiskeys with sourced whiskey from Minnesota though they expect to transition to 100% Texas distilled and aged stock.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: The nose has a nice aroma of sweet cherries and fresh peaches with just a touch of vanilla underlying oak notes.

Palate: On the palate the bourbon is light, and flavors of peach and nectarine combine with soft notes of vanilla, oak, and a touch of spearmint.

Finish: Fruitiness carries through on the finish with notes of real peach iced tea, a hint of brown sugar and enough oak tannins to balance the sweetness.

Conclusion: Overall, this is a light and fruity bourbon that is easy to drink and would make a refreshing summertime tipple either served on the rocks, in a highball, or in a Texas Grog. Blackland Bourbon Whiskey makes me believe that we can expect more good things from this Fort Worth distillery and it is a testament of how the Texas climate can make young whiskey sip beyond its age.

How to Use Texas Whiskey and Bourbon in Cocktails

Texas Whiskey is known for its bold character due to its intense aging environment. Some might struggle with how to use these spirits in cocktails so here is a little history that can help guide us.

For those who only know Texas through the movies, it is easy to imagine the state pre-prohibition to be a huge expanse of brushy grazing land dotted with cattle, and a few cowboys who fiercely value their independence. While there have been and are areas where this is true, Texas also had large cosmopolitan cities well respected for their contribution to cocktail culture. In the 19th Century, several travelers recoded their experiences and observations while traveling through Texas and remarked on the array of grog shops, taverns, saloons, and ornate hotel lounges available for drinking. With that in mind, here are two drinks, one simple and one more sophisticated, that could work with Texas whiskey both then and now.

Texas Grog

One of the advantages of the intense Texas climate is that you can get a more mature tasting whiskey with less aging time than a similar whiskey from Kentucky, Tennessee, or Indiana. For most young whiskey it is best mixed with colas or sodas to mask its youth but young Texas whiskeys can work both as sippers or in cocktails. Inspired by the 19th Century Texas grog shops, I came up with a light and refreshing drink that pairs great with Texas bourbon.

  • 2oz bourbon (Treaty Oak’s Ghost Hill Texas Bourbon, or Blackland Bourbon work well)

  • 2oz water

  • ½oz fresh orange juice (fresh not bottled OJ is key)

  • ½oz simple syrup

  • 2 dashes Angostura Bitters

Shake all the ingredients with ice and strain into a double Old-Fashioned glass with fresh ice.

The Improved (Texas) Whiskey Cocktail

In the 1830s Huston, was no backwater town, so while Texans are known for being hard working and free spirited, they are certainly not barbarians. One could have walked into a fancy hotel bar and found an array of spirits such as cognac, gin, rums from Jamaica and Cuba, and whiskeys from Tennessee, Kentucky, Maryland, Ireland, and Scotland. In addition, wines such as claret, port, madeira, hock, burgundy, sherry, and champagne were available from several merchants in the city. Given this wide variety of regional and imported beverages an Improved Whiskey Cocktail would have been great option for a m1ore sophisticated drink.

  • 1 sugar cube (1tsp white sugar or ¼oz simple syrup)

  • 1 bar spoon (¼oz) maraschino liqueur

  • 1 dash Angostura Bitters

  • 1 dash Peychaud’s Bitters

  • 1 dash absinthe

  • 2oz bourbon (Balcones’s Texas Pot Still Bourbon or Garison Brothers Texas Small Batch Bourbon will work well)

  • 2in lemon peel for garnish

In an Old-Fashioned glass, add the sugar, maraschino, bitters, absinthe, and muddle them for about 30 seconds (if using simple syrup skip the muddling). Add the bourbon and a large ice cube and stir again until chilled. Twist or pinch the lemon peel over the glass to express the oils, then drop it into the drink.